CORDWAINER
THEIR BACKGROUND
Cordwainer, Anglicization of French “cordonnier” introduced to our language
after the Norman invasion
of England in 1066. It derived from the city of Cordoba in the
south of Spain, stronghold
of Islamic Omeyyad Kalifs. Cordoba, a Morrish village,
was known for two trades, silversmithing and production of
“cordouan” leather, called “Cordwain”in England.
Cordouan was made from skin of the Musoli goat then found in
Corsica, Sardinia. The skin or hide was 'tawed' with alum.
Cordouan became the leather most in demand for fine footwear
in all of Europe.
The English term
cordwainer , means shoemaker, appear in 1100 . In the 13th
century a distinction
was made between Cordwainers proper, called “alutari” , ones
that used only alum tawed
cordwain and another class that used inferior tanned
sheepskin which were
called basanarii.
Shoemakers themselves
selected to be called ccordwainers and the first 'guild' of
cordwainers was formed in
Osford in 1131.
The first cordwainers or
shoemakers to come to America came to Jamestown,
Virginia in 1607, Captain
John Smith was a cordwainer and profits supporting the
settlement came from the
English shoe trade. By 1610 more shoemakers, tanners had
arrived at Jamestown and
records show a shoe and leather trade flourished there as early
as 1616.
Chistopher Nelme ,
shoemaker, arrived in Jametown sailing from Bristol to
Virginia in 1619 is said
to be the first cordwainer of America.
After 1760's other
American settlement relied upon Virginia for leather goods.
Cordwainer's and cobblers:
Cordwainers work only with new leather. Cobblers
work with 'old' leather
and are 'repairers' instead of shoemakers.
Abstract from Educational
Foundation Incorporated in Virginia, The Honourable
Cordwainers Company, by
Harrison H. May 26, 2018.
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